Frequently Asked Questions - FAQs
Here you will find a list of the most frequently asked questions and general tips for troubleshooting. If you are not able to find an answer to the question you have and you have read through the tipsheet(s) of the product that you are working with, then please feel free to reach out to us via our contact page.
You can browse this section by clicking each product category below.
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- Crackle Tex
- Effects and Mediums
- Leaf and Foil Size
- Sealers, Topcoats and Varnishes
- Textures and Plasters
- Transfer Gel
- Wood Stains
How do I get rid of the white “Halo” around my Transfer Gel image transfer?
After removing the paper pulp, after the surface has dried, occasionally a white “halo” will appear around the transferred image. To remove or reduce the halo, lightly sand the dried image with a fine grit (250-800). The light sanding loosens the fine paper pulp fibers creating the halo. Next, lightly mist the halo area. Slowly, using fingertips, work edges very gently removing excess paper pulp around the halo. Do not use too much pressure when sanding or when rubbing with your fingertips. Excessive pressure can accidently distress the painted finish below the transfer.
How do I keep my unused plaster from drying out once the container has been opened?After opening and exposure to air, plasters can become thicker and dry out over time due to moisture evaporation. Always make sure to close containers tightly after each use to maintain consistency. You can optionally add a small amount (thin layer) of clean water over the used product to to create a "skin" or barrier to the air inside the container.
How do I polish or burnish VP Antico?VP Antico can be burnished and polished once dry. To burnish VP Antico, using a fine grit sandpaper (400 - 1000 grit depending on level of polish desired) very lightly sand the plaster. Work in small circles until the level of sheen or polish is achieved. The higher grit sandpaper will produce a smoother higher polish. Wipe the surface with a slightly damp cloth to remove plaster dust from sanding before adding additional layers or sealer.
How do I remove Artisan Enhancements™ Leaf and Foil Size from tools hands and brushes?
Use hand sanitizer to remove “tackiness” from hands and fingers. Use rubbing alcohol to remove sizing from tools and stencils. After cleaning with rubbing alcohol rinse with warm water to remove any remaining alcohol residue.
How many coats are recommended for full coverage of Nature’s Wood Stain™?
For full coverage we recommend two full coats of Nature’s Wood Stain™. Allow the first coat to dry a minimum of 2 hours before applying a second coat. Additional coats should only be applied after the recommended dry/re-coating times have elapsed. If desired, 3-4 coats of stain can be applied. The recommended recoat time between each coat is 2 hours.
I accidentally put the wrong side of foil down how can I fix it?
If you’re able to easily pull/peel up the foil from the surface: Lift the foil off the surface, re-exposing the Leaf and Foil Size layer. If you’re not able to easily pull/peel up the foil from the surface: Using a precision cutting tool like an Exacto knife or razor blade, find an edge of the foil and gently try to pry the foil from the Size. Rubbing Alcohol on a Q-tip may help soften the Size adhesive as a last resort.
Re-apply Size if needed and apply foil. Remember, foils should be applied shiny side (color) face up.
When pulling off the foil, some Size and paint may pull off due to the extra strength bonding of the Size medium. If sticky Size comes off or bubbles, patch the missing areas with more Size. If paint lifts, depending on the severity of the paint lift, some touch up paint maybe required. If areas are small: touch-up with paint and reapply Size. If paint needs to be removed and the entire surface repainted: To remove old Size and paint from the surface, use a chip brush dipped in rubbing alcohol to soften the Size adhesive. Next, sand off the Size and paint. Then repaint and reapply Size. Make sure the alcohol residue is completely evaporated and removed from the surface prior to repainting.
Is Crackle Tex supposed to be watery in the container?Crackle Tex is a thick bodied water-based crackle medium. Overtime, the resins in the crackle medium can settle to the bottom. When this occurs, liquid can rise to the top. Before beginning any project, it is important to always stir the product from the bottom up in the container. Making sure any potentially settled resins are reincorporated.
Note: After opening and exposure to air, Crackle Tex can become thicker over time due to some evaporation. Always make sure to close containers tightly after each use to maintain consistency.
Is Nature’s Wood Stain™ oil-based or water-based stain?
Both! Made with next generation bio-based chemistry Nature’s Wood Stain™ is a hybrid a waterborne-alkyd and bio-based oil product. The water content helps the stain penetrate deep into the wood or porous surfaces, while the oil provides a durable finish once cured.
What are the best surfaces for Crackle Tex application?Crackle Tex can be used to achieve chunky and chipped effects. Great for a variety of interior applications and surfaces such as: furniture, cabinetry, decorative arts, and walls.
Before any Crackle Tex application, surfaces should be free of cleaner residue, dust, dirt, and debris. Surfaces should be dry before Crackle Tex application. If painting/staining/layering before Crackle Tex application, make sure the basecoat of paint/stain/layers are completely dry before application of Crackle Tex. For best results let surfaces dry overnight before Crackle Tex application.
Note: Raw, stone, or untreated surfaces may need to be sealed with Artisan Enhancements™ Clear Topcoat prior to Crackle Tex application – These types of surfaces absorb too much of the crackle medium resulting in less pronounced or absent crackle effects.